Thursday, January 23, 2014

鰻魚凍,aspic d'anguille

鰻魚凍


鰻魚凍英文Jellied eels)是一道起源於18世紀倫敦菜,最初出現在英國倫敦東區
是用濃湯煮歐洲鰻鱺段,並在煮熟後冷卻製成的。

歷史

位於佩克漢的M Manze餐館,出售鰻魚凍
這道菜價格便宜、營養豐富而容易準備。而鰻魚在泰晤士河中曾是很常見的生物,故而受到窮人的喜愛。
第一家出售鰻魚凍的餐廳開張於18世紀,現存最老的鰻魚凍餐廳則是1902年開業的M Manze。
第二次世界大戰之後,倫敦出現了數百家出售鰻魚凍的餐廳,稱作Eel Pie & Mash Houses。
1960年代之後,泰晤士河水質量得到改善,一度減少的鰻魚又開始增多了。[3]

製作

傳統上,這道菜使用的是倫敦當地的歐洲鰻鱺。鰻魚切片後放入鍋中,加煮熟,冷卻前加入肉豆蔻
檸檬汁。在煮鱔魚時,魚體內的膠質會使得湯逐漸凝稠,有時也會加入明膠。從倫敦高檔餐廳到街邊小
攤都會有這道菜的身影。
鱔魚凍有時會與另一道倫敦名菜牛肉餡餅和馬鈴薯泥一起被食用,加上辣椒醋。

英國之外的其他地區

義大利也有同樣的菜,一般叫做「anguilla」(字面意思即鰻魚),使用義大利香醋調味。
法國人稱這道菜為「aspic d'anguille」,德國人稱之為「Aal in Aspik」,都是「鰻魚凍」的意思。
巴斯克地區有一道菜叫做「txitxardin」,西班牙其他地區亦稱「angulas」,是由幼鰻做成的。


Tuesday, January 14, 2014

海流與鰻魚


New analysis of ocean currents may solve eel mystery

(http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-25505612)
A new analysis of wind-driven Atlantic currents may help scientists solve a mysterious decline in eel numbers.
These secretive creatures are born in the Sargasso Sea but migrate to Europe where they spend most of their lives.
But unexplained fluctuations in the numbers of those traversing the ocean have thwarted efforts to save the species.
Now researchers believe they have built a computer model that will accurately predict the level of migration.
Smoked, fried or boiled, eels remain a popular dish in many parts of Europe, particularly at Christmas.
Newspaper reports in the UK have indicated an upsurge in their consumption due to the recession as the fish are cheap and nutritious.
But numbers of European eels have declined rapidly in recent decades and scientists have struggled to explain the reasons behind the drop.
Transparent elvers
Complicating matters is the creature's complex life cycle. They are born in the Sargasso Sea, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
The young, called elvers, are sometimes known as glass eels, as you can literally see through them.
Carried by the Gulf stream, they end up in European rivers where they can spend 20 years before embarking on the return voyage to spawn.
A team of scientists has now managed to simulate these journeys on a mass scale, using a computer model that followed 8 million tiny drifting particles that represented the eel larvae. This model simulation covered the years between 1960 and 2005.
The researchers found that small scale, wind-driven ocean currents strongly determined fluctuations in eel populations in Europe.
The numbers were big when favourable currents made for a short trip. But when the currents changed and the journeys were much longer, fewer elvers survived.
"There is a clear link," Dr Christophe Eizaguirre from Queen Mary, University of London told BBC News.
"If the weather changes then there is a clear risk for the eel population."
The destruction of river habitats and infections with a parasite have also impacted the eel numbers. But researchers believe that, if they can't figure out the scale of returning young, they won't be able to save thisendangered species.
"Between the moment the eels are born and when they arrive on the European coast takes two years," said Dr Eizaguirre.
"So we can look at the currents and predict the number successfully arriving on the European coast so we have time to adjust management programmes."
This would mean that, if numbers were low, eel fishing quotas could be lowered until stocks recovered.
Homeward bound
How conservationists in the UK are trying to help European eels swim upstream
By combining their modelling with genetic analysis, the researchers now believe that each eel returns to the spot where it was born - similar to turtles and salmon.
"This is a new finding," said Dr Miguel Baltazar-Soares, from the GEOMAR Helmholtz Centre for Ocean Research and the lead author of the study.
"So far it was assumed that the mating in the Atlantic takes place completely independently of the area of origin. Future scientific expeditions will have to verify this result in situ."
The scientists say that the first draft of the eel's genome, which will be available in the coming months, might shed new light on just how these slippery creatures manage to navigate the ocean so accurately.
"Is it the Earth's geomagnetic field as some believe?" posed Dr Eizaguirre.
"Or do they have large numbers of olfactory genes like turtles, and somehow find the smell of home?"
"It is the one million dollar question," he said.

Monday, January 13, 2014

鰻魚 電子書




The Eel 

xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/19893118/.../The%2520Eel%2520buku.pdf

由 FW Tesch 著作 

Tuesday, January 07, 2014

日本: 養殖鰻魚苗成本大量低

水産庁、ウナギ稚魚大量生産へ研究本格化 

2014/1/8 0:42
日本経済新聞 電子版
 水産庁は2014年度から、漁獲量が大幅に減っているウナギの稚魚(シラスウナギ)の大量生産に向けた研究を始める。ウナギの価格が高騰し、家庭の食卓から遠のいているためだ。低いコストでたくさんの稚魚を養殖する技術を開発し、国産ウナギを安く食べられるようにする。
 現在のウナギ養殖は海岸で捕まえた天然のシラスウナギを育てて出荷している。卵を産ませてシラスウナギにする技術もあるが、多額の投資が必要で、…